Remote control – 1: the receiver
== 1 == BUILD THE RECEIVER
a – cut the ending part of the headphone cable (i.e. , remove headphones)
b – connect the IR leds in place of the headphones (one led per channel)
That’s all, now you have an IR receiver. (Note: images refer to first attempt with a single LED connected once to a channel and then to the other till the correct one was found).
Or just buy one irDroid IR blaster:
http://www.irdroid.com/purchase/
Jumping Jack Flash weblog 
[…] – Plug your receiver into MICROPHONE input of your sound […]
Does this say to use a IR EMITTING LED? Opposed to an IR DETECTOR? For me the detector works as a mic but not the emitter. Which to me, logic shows should be true but this i think says to use a emitter as a mic.
that’s the point!
An EMITTER LED can work both ways! I.E., if you point your remote control to it and press a button, internal resistance of the transmitter LED will change accordingly, just like a microphone changes its internal resistence when receiving sound. Have you ever tried connecting a microphone to earphone port? You’ll hear sound coming from it! And if you connect your earphone to microphone port… it will act as a microphone!
For LEDs, its just the same.
Unfrotunately, a transmitter LED used as receiver has a very short range (only a few centimeters), but that’s all you need to sample your remote. If you want to use it to control a device with the remote, you’ll need an amplifier.
WOW! I never knew that! That amazed me! Now i understand this step a little more. I don’t have a ground so i just connected it to the other ear piece wire and t seemed to work out fine for me. Is that okay? (I’m not sure because i haven’t gotten it to Emmit properly yet.)
What do you mean with “I don’t have a ground”???
The “ground” is the copper wire surrounding the main wire connected to each earpiece.
I mean, you have two cables, each one connected to an earpiece.
Each cable is made up of an internal insulated copper wire surrounded by uninsulated copper wire, which is the “ground”.
You can see it here:
I connected together the two grounds of two cables, but actually maybe it’s not necessary, they are already connected inside the circuitry.
For the receiver, I found you can conncet the led both among ground and white-wire, or among two white cables.
Instead, you must connect the LED(s) among white cables for the transmitter.
Then that means that the way my transmitter is set up should be ok. By not having ground i mean one wire comes out of the right ear’s cable and one for the left ear’s cable. I can plainly see your ground wire but I believe mine does not have a ground.
this is what i wanted to know thanks but have you tried this with the zaza remote app for ISO and android?
i need some help ,i bought a nice low profile 3.5mm jack IR emitter called a jakcom i2 ,it says it uses the zaza remote app, i tried it in IOS and it works but my panasonic tv wont work with any supplied codes,the app does have a learning function but it does not work for me sometimes it says it detected a signal when i did not press the remote yet and sometimes i hold down the button on the remote and the app still does not detect the signal and there is a delay before it says it recognized a signal but every time i try the button i programmed with the learning function it never works ,so i am wondering that since the IR LED’s in this deice are so small that maybe that si the reason for the learning function not working so well, i wonder if use this if it will work because of the larger IR LED’s ? there is no other way to get codes in the app that i can tell so i would use this to program the app learning function then switch back to the nice small low profile jakcom emitter to use it since i d o not want to carry around a phone with a big goofy adapter sticking out of it
also the jakcom adapter and android version of za za remote app does not work with my android device, a kindle fire 7 5th gen rooted with resurection remix custom rom on it i wonder why thought, when i plug the 3.55mm IR adapter in i see the icon for headphones connected ,there is a list on the seller page where i bought that says it only works with the listed android devices but i wonder why this is exactly since i thought that all 3.55mm headphone jacks are standard ,do you have any ideas? they also sell another model ,the 12a for android but it look different a white ball with an emoji on it and it protrudes way out ,i just want to use the nice stylish low profile jakcom i2 or i2L adapter for both ISO and android ,for my tablet, is there any war to figure out how to do it?
Try plugging the jackom device into your PC, and record some remote keys, just to see if and how it works.
By the way, Zaza page says:
Please check if your phone has IR first，The remote control function of this software is made on infrared，therefore it can work normally only when your mobile phone is configured with built-in infrared transmitter or external infrared controller.
This does not include an add-on IR transmitter plugged into headset port!
Don’t know if a specific app exist; if not, you could just use PC to sample and recreate signals, and any audio player on phone to play the signales.
wow thanks for the fast reply! ,no it definitely does work with a 3.5 mm headphone jack IR emitter ,like the jakcom one i got it working on my iphone 5c it works with my cable box and my air conditioner but the codes for my TV,panasonic do not work at all i tried goldstar too and “all” and “other” also none of them work with the TV and the zaza app with the jakcom does not work on the 5th gen fire 7 tablet with android version of the app ,maybe it only work with 3.5mm IR adapter on the IOS version, but the place i ordered it from said it works with android , but said it only works with some model phones with android
You could try sampling your remotes using PC and sending the resulting WAV files to ZAZA developer to see if he can add them to app database. (maybe he’ll be glad to obtain new data)
do you have an IOS device and an android device that you could test this ZAZA remote app with with your receiver and transmitter devices ,and let us know if it works?
the jakcom device says it uses 2 IR leds and 2 resistors,it shows a picture or it blown up of the insides ,but there is no real schematic
i saw that another poster has posted a schematic for a transmitter receiver all in one device that uses 2 IR leds, but no resistors ,and it has both cathodes going to ground , but the other schematics for the 2 IR led emitters have neither anodes or cathodes going to ground ,and your schematic for the receiver has one of the IR led leads going to ground ,so i wonder how the adapters to be used with this app are to be wired? there are also different adapters besides the jakcom i2 ,i2L and i2A that say to use this app some have 1 LED like the i2A and there are other cheap $1 adapters that are for android with 1 led ,so i am curious what setup this app requires for sampling IR signals with its learning feature ,i had a device laying around ,it is an IR emmiter with one IR led and a mic plug on the other end ,there are only 2 connectors on the 3.55 mm plug though not 3 like a headphone jack, i tried it with the app and nothing was detected
so i was wondering if you could test this app and see if you have any luck with different configurations i will try some more testing also and report back
There IS a schematic on jackmote site, but it is very well hidden! ( http://www.irdroid.com/downloads/?did=7 )
Here it is, now uploaded to my site (it’s open hardware):
The receiver is different from the emitter (at least in my notes): you just need one LED to sample a remote, as there’s no need to sample the 19 kHz carrier, it’s enough to sample when it is present and when it is not, then you rebuild the original waverform by hand.
Actually I currently don’t need an “IR blaster” anymore since I got MySkyHD, which can be remotely programmed through internet without need for a phone+IR in front of it which plays REC command…. which was the original reason for which I started this study.
So I currently don’t have a dual-LED IR blaster ready now to test, I should find the LEDs, the jack, and build it…
Anyway there is another test to attempt: possibily modern phones can play sounds at higher frequency than 19 kHz (I think PCs can), so maybe now just one single LED and a proper WAV file would be enough.
There is also the possibility to self-create a simple app which plays desired WAV files, by using MIT AppInventor.
We/you could give it a try…
AppInventor tutorials for audio playing:
http://appinventor.mit.edu/explore/ai2/hellopurr.html
I remembered correctly, writing a simple app with AppInventor is a matter of minutes!
You should be able to import my example app into AppInventor by loading this .AIA file:
link
You can also download binary… but it’s not so useful, it just plays a couple of random WAV sample I found on my hard disk. It could be useful just to see if your phone would support your appinventor-written custom app.
link
ok thanks maybe when i get some time will try the app inventor app
i did however try the 3 IR blaster wiring methods, 1 led receiver, 2 led emitter , 2 leds with both cathodes going to ground pin emitter/receiver
that the other poster posted
the results were that neither of the 3 circuits worked for reading remote signals with either the IOS or android version of the app on my 5th gen amazon fire 7 tablet or my iphone 5c , the 2 led emitter circuit,anode to cathode ,cathode to anode one worked with the IOS version of the app on my iphone 5c(2 actually one on ios and one on ios 8) for emitting ,but neither of the 2 emitter circuits or the receiver one worked for learning
I think you need a 4-pin jack to connect an IR sampler to the phone, so the phone will recognize it as a microphone+headset rather than just a headset.
This app should work… but looks a little crappy…
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microcontrollerbg.irdroid
worst app i have ever seen ,no it does not work and the documentation says you need their adapter, and it sounds like their adapter has it own power source it says something about batteries being inserted but i can barely understand any of the documentation it is retarded the app is retarded it makes no sense at all
it says “select a device” then it has a pull down menu that says “select a command’ but there are already 6 command buttons at the top ,whoever made this is severly autistic
[…] Remote control – 1: the receiver […]
Thank you for the instructions.I built your transmitter and the transceiver from SamyGo forums.For some unknown reasons the transceiver only records the signal (from “Line-In”, not working from “Microphone”), I couldn’t make it send, from my PC or Android tablet.The transmitter works flawlessly from my Android tablet, from PC no chance (using “Speaker Out”;the sound card boasts that the default format is 192KHz 24bits ).I used some cleaned signal captured from my TV remote control using your tutorial.It works like a charm from the tablet.
It’s not clear from your words if it works in your tablet or not…
If the PC soundcard does actually support such an high frequency, it should be able to directly both record and play original signal without further processing: the signal is at 48 kHz, and your soundcard works at 48x4kHz.
My project was originally designed to overcome typical soundcards limitations to 20-30 kHz.
Which range can you achieve on transmitting and receiving?
I made IR receiver but it is not working.Why???
What is working and what not? Did you get any audio sample?
Do you have a video for editing waveforms????
Sorry no videos, look at the screenshots!
44100 kHz or 76000 kHz???
You should be more detailed in your questions.
In instructions is 44100 kHz,on the picture is 76000 kHz????
tHEHIGHER
what means tHEIGHER???
76000 kHz????
Sorry, I had issues while posting comment…
The higher is the frequency, the better are the results. But some players only support 44100 Hz.
I made receiver but it’s not working.
Hi, I built the receiver as described above, but it doesn’t work at all: Audacity doesn’t record anything. Is there something I could do?
try if a microphone works, maybe the audio card is broken or you are using wrong port.
I followed the instruction however my samples do not generate a square wave….
Hello i made the receiver but i cant get the square wave form
You must wait for me to approve your comments, then they’re published… 🙂
Does your microphone port work properly with a microphone?