New test with IR receiver/transmitter using sound card
Some tests have been performed using an Asus EEEPC 701 4G to both sample and play remote control signals.
EEEPC looks to have an high capabilities sound card, which allows sampling up to 154000 Hz; this allows properly sampling the original 38000 Hz carrier rather than just its presence/absence.
Standard audio card sampling:
Asus EEEPC sampling:
Using this sample, some tests hav been performed to determine if, how and when the EEEPC is capable of controlling the TV set which the remote belongs to.
Results are weird: ONE single LED appear to be enough to control the TV set, but NOT using the original sampled signal; instead, an artificial signal made out of a 19000 Hz tone and “mixed” into a stereo signal made up of inverted signals is needed to properly control the TV set.
Codici discreti telecomandi per DVD recorder LG
Discrete IR codes for LG DVD Recorder (tested on RH-255)
Un “codice discreto per telecomando” è un codice di controllo che non corrisponde a nessun tasto realmente presente sul telecomando che attiva una certa funzionalità sul dispositivo.
Sul telecomando è presente un singolo tasto on/off, che accende il dispositivo se è spento o lo spegne se è acceso (“toggle”).
Il codice discreto “ON” accende il dispositivo se è spento, e non fa niente se è già acceso; analogamente il codice “OFF”.
Per la selezione della sorgente esterna, il tasto sul telecomando scorre le sorgenti AV1, AV2, AV3 e antenna; su certi dispositivi esistono codici discreti per selezionare la singola sorgente, a prescindere da quale sia quella attualmente selezionata.
——–
Per il DVD RH 255, ho trovato questi codici:
DVD ON
0000 006d 0022 0003 00ab 00aa 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 003e 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 06c3 00ab 00aa 0016 0014 0016 0e7d
DVD OFF
0000 006d 0022 0003 00ab 00aa 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 003f 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 003f 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 0014 0016 003e 0016 06c3 00ab 00aa 0016 0014 0016 0e7d
tasto REC
Codice LIRC: 0x6D92 = 0110 1101 1001 0010
L’equivalente PRONTO dovrebbe essere, stando al programma “TONTO”:
0000 006d 0022 0002 0157 00ab 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 0016 0016 003f 0016 0016 0016 05f3 0157 0055 0016 0e4d
Come ho ricavato il codice “PRONTO”?
Osservando il tracciato del segnale campionato, e considerando (a parte i primi due “scalini” molto larghi) che “alto-breve / basso lungo” indica un bit pari a 1, mentre “alto-breve / basso-breve” indica un bit pari a 0 (zero), si ottiene:
10110100101101000110110110010010
In questo tipo di protocollo (“SIRCS”), i primi 16 bit sono sempre uguali e indicano il dispositivo; i successivi 8 indicano il comando; gli ultimi 8 sono i bit invertiti del comando.
Dividendo la sequenza in gruppi di 8 si ha:
10110100 10110100 01101101 10010010
Si nota chiaramente che gli ultimi 2 gruppi hanno i bit l’uno l’opposto dell’altro.
Convertendo in esadecimale, si ottiene:
B4 B4 6D 92
Questo vuol dire che i comandi possibili sono solo 256, cioè i valori da 0xb4b400 a 0xb4b4ff (aggiungendo alla fine il byte invertito).
Nel file LIRC, il codice dispositivo (b4b4) è indicato nella riga:
pre_data 0xB4B4
Riepilogando, ecco alcuni tasti noti:
DVD ON: 0xb4b4.ae.51
DVD OFF: 0xb4b4.6e.91
REC: 0xb4b4.6D.92
PLAY: 0xb4b4.8C.73
STOP: 0xb4b4.9C.63
In piu’, secondo il file LIRC:
| nome | hex | dec | bin |
| 6 | 0x02FD | 2 | 0000001011111101 |
| SUBTITLE | 0x0AF5 | 10 | 0000101011110101 |
| POWER | 0x0CF3 | 12 | 0000110011110011 |
| DOWN | 0x12ED | 18 | 0001001011101101 |
| ENTER | 0x1AE5 | 26 | 0001101011100101 |
| PAUSE | 0x1CE3 | 28 | 0001110011100011 |
| 0 | 0x22DD | 34 | 0010001011011101 |
| ZOOM | 0x26D9 | 38 | 0010011011011001 |
| SKIP-FORWARD | 0x2CD3 | 44 | 0010110011010011 |
| ANGLE | 0x32CD | 50 | 0011001011001101 |
| 2 | 0x3CC3 | 60 | 0011110011000011 |
| 8 | 0x42BD | 66 | 0100001010111101 |
| SEARCH | 0x46B9 | 70 | 0100011010111001 |
| SCAN-BACK | 0x4CB3 | 76 | 0100110010110011 |
| TITLE | 0x52AD | 82 | 0101001010101101 |
| RIGHT | 0x5AA5 | 90 | 0101101010100101 |
| DISPLAY | 0x5CA3 | 92 | 0101110010100011 |
| CLEAR | 0x629D | 98 | 0110001010011101 |
| SETUP | 0x6A95 | 106 | 0110101010010101 |
| OPEN/CLOSE | 0x6C93 | 108 | 0110110010010011 |
| STAR | 0x7A85 | 122 | 0111101010000101 |
| 4 | 0x7C83 | 124 | 0111110010000011 |
| 7 | 0x827D | 130 | 1000001001111101 |
| MARKER | 0x8679 | 134 | 1000011001111001 |
| RANDOM | 0x8A75 | 138 | 1000101001110101 |
| PLAY | 0x8C73 | 140 | 1000110001110011 |
| LEFT | 0x9A65 | 154 | 1001101001100101 |
| STOP | 0x9C63 | 156 | 1001110001100011 |
| RETURN | 0xA25D | 162 | 1010001001011101 |
| A-B | 0xAA55 | 170 | 1010101001010101 |
| SKIP-BACK | 0xAC53 | 172 | 1010110001010011 |
| 3 | 0xBC43 | 188 | 1011110001000011 |
| 9 | 0xC23D | 194 | 1100001000111101 |
| REPEAT | 0xCA35 | 202 | 1100101000110101 |
| SCAN-FORWARD | 0xCC33 | 204 | 1100110000110011 |
| DVD-MENU | 0xD22D | 210 | 1101001000101101 |
| 1 | 0xDC23 | 220 | 1101110000100011 |
| UP | 0xE21D | 226 | 1110001000011101 |
| PROGRAM | 0xEA15 | 234 | 1110101000010101 |
| AUDIO | 0xF20D | 242 | 1111001000001101 |
| 5 | 0xFC03 | 252 | 1111110000000011 |
Turn your phone into an universal remote control
This short tutorial shows how to turn almost any cellphone into an universal IR remote control.
CHECK GoogleCode page for downloads and updates
Old post (with detailed instructions about how to build hardware)
Why it should work also on non-stereo cellphones (but it does not?!?) (see also excel file)
Useful links (explanations of remote control protocols)
Other uses for old phones
Available patents (not mine):
Infrared generator from audio signal source
IR receiver using IR transmitting diode
Ready-made transmitter: irDroid
http://www.irdroid.com/purchase/
Requirements:
– a cellphone with stereo audio output (audio left , audio right , ground) or symmetrical audio output (audio+, audio-)
– 2 IR leds
– a wired headset compatible with the phone
– a PC with audio card
– an audio recording software on PC
– an audio editing software for PC or an audio sinthesyzer software for PC
This project does not depend on O.S. used: you just need ANY computer capable of recording audio and create audio files from scratch. Linux, Windows, MacOSX or whatelse makes NO difference.
Please look at this post to know how to:
– build an IR receiver for the PC
– sample a remote control
– (create a WAV file using Audacity program) (not strictly needed: this article describe an alternate method).
Once you sampled all needed buttons of your remote, it’s just a matter of building a proper WAV file for each one of them. If you don’t want to use Audacity to do it manually, you can use SOX program: it creates pieces of “raw” audio file, which joined together build up the final WAV file.
Here you find example scripts (for DOS/Windows environment) which build a WAV file based on binary description of the remote signal. You have to setup the unizeri.bat file to have it matching the sampled signal. Then call create.bat specifying as parameter the “creator file” (unizeri-raw, or unizeri-tv,… ), the final WAV file (testbutton) and the number of additional times you want the command is repeated (at least ONE occurrence will be alway created):
create unizeri-raw testbutton 4
(no extensions required for filenames) (NOTE: script must be run inside SOX folder).
This will result in a tesbutton.wav file which, played on a phone (or on PC, or on any audio capable device), equipped with audio-to-IR converter, to control your device.
The audio-to-IR converter:
It is just a couple of LEDs connected in oppopsite ways to “audio output left” and “audio output right” (for normal phones) or to “audio+” and “ground” (for phones with symetrical audio output like nokia 6680). In symetricl ouptu, Left- and Right- must be connected together (see below).
Audio-to-IR converter:
Connections for nokia 6680:
(10 Ohm resistor not strictly needed)
—————————————————-
Study about physics/optical phoenomena involved in this project:
Excel file – how to play a 38000 Hz “sound” through a 20000Hz-capable audio device
Big image summarizing Excel data
————————-
Forums about Ledrem:
Italian:
English:
Remote control – 1: the receiver
== 1 == BUILD THE RECEIVER
a – cut the ending part of the headphone cable (i.e. , remove headphones)
b – connect the IR leds in place of the headphones (one led per channel)
That’s all, now you have an IR receiver. (Note: images refer to first attempt with a single LED connected once to a channel and then to the other till the correct one was found).
Or just buy one irDroid IR blaster:
http://www.irdroid.com/purchase/
Remote control 4: the emitter
== 4 == BUILD THE EMITTER
a – Pick the headphone cable
b – connect one led between left and right channel (don’t care GROUND)
c – connect the other led between left and right channel, but the opposite direction
Your emitter should look like this:
Please note the opposite orientation of the two leds!
You should connect them to your headphone cable this way:
Ok, your emitter is ready.
Unfortunately, as it is it will be very weak, and it will have just a few centimeters range! To get a suitable range you need a suitable power; and to get more power than the phone can provide, you need an amplifier.
An amplifier is an electronic circuit which uses an external power source to add some power to a weak electric signal; you can build a simple one using just a few components: 5 resistors and 1 transistor:
The resistors are the component which have a “xxx kOhms” label; the transistor (here, actually, a “double transistor”, properly a “darlington”) is in the circle.
The external power here comes from a 9V battery (bottom left in the picture) .
Let’s divide the circuit in parts to better understand it.
- We have a voltage divider: this set of components divides the voltage in parts, depending on how it is built, according to formula:
Vout = Vin * R2/(R1+R2)
If R1 = R2, Vin is exactly splint in 2 equal parts: Vout = Vin / 2
This means that in our circuit the voltage in Vout will be 4.5V if we use a 9V battery.
Why do we need this voltage divider? Because the input signal coming from phone to our amplifier will have positive and negative values (its carrier is a sinusoid), so if the base of the transistor was biased at 9V, transistor wouldn’t be able to amplify positive parts of the wave, being it at higher voltage than the battery; if it was biased at 0V, negative parts of the input wave would be lost; we need “the right in the middle value”: 4.5V - Now we can add the transistor, which will get Vout as input to its base:
- In case the current/signal coming from the phone was too high, we need a limiting resistor on the input; I don’t know how actually high can the phone output voltage be, anyway the current that will flow trhough transistor will be Iin = Vphone/R3. This current will just activate and drive the transistor, it does not flow through the speaker:
- The current which flows in the speaker is determined by the battery voltage, not by the phone voltage; the power which the transistor must handle due to surrounding components is given by P = V^2 / Rs, where Rs is the internal resistance of the speaker, which we do not know:
but we know from datasheet that the MPSW45A cannot tolerate more than 1W (Pd value); to get Pd<=1 we must have V^2/Rtot <=1 ,i.e 81<= Rtot , where Rtot is the total resistance given by sum of speaker resistor and additional R4: we get that it must be Rtot = Rs + R4 >=81 ohm , and Iout would be Iout = V/Rtot <= 9/81 = <=111 mA:
for this current flowing through the transistor we get around the maximum amplification, as we can see from datasheet:
In “phone world”, 5V is a most common voltage (USB charger voltage); what does it happen by applying 5V to this circuit rather than 9V?
The original site the schematic comes from does not explore this case… but I assume that we would get:
- Rtot >=V^2 –> Rtot >=25
- Vbase = 2.5V
- P = 25/Rtot
- 25/81= 0.3 = 1/3
This means that by sure the transistor won’t get damaged, and it also probably means that we’ll get an output power wich is 1/3 of what we get using 5V, assuming we use same R4. To get same power of the 9V-powered amplifier, I think we’d need a total resistance Rtot >= 25 Ohm; R4 value is given by: R4 = Rtot – Rs = 25-Rs.
>> NEXT- REPLAY THE WAVEFORM: (in this same page)
a – Plug the emitter into HEADPHONE output of your audio card
b – Position the two leds just in front of your device
c – Press PLAY in Audacity: your device should react to the command you previously sampled.
Remote control – 3: Editing waveform
== 3 == EDIT WAVEFORMS
Now you need to rebuild the original signal of the remote. As explained above, it’s just a matter of carrier present/absent. So:
a – Add 2 new mono tracks into Audacity project
b – Copy the “squared” signal into one track
c – On the other track, create a “tone” (the carrier): 38000 Hz 19000 Hz frequency, 0.9 amplitude
d – Select and delete unneeded parts of the tones; to do this, you have to zoom in: select a part of the signal, and click on the “zoom to fit” button:
You’ll obtain something like this:
e – Now click on an edge of the signal and drag the mouse down to the second track, until the selection reachs the edge of the next pulse in the signal:
f – Once thw WHOLE low-part of the signal is selected (see picture below), click on the “silence” button:
g – You should obtain “silence” on the lower track too:
h – Repeat steps e-f-g for all silence parts of the signal, until you obtain something like this:
Ok, now you have replicated the original signal.
Unfortunately, you can’t just “replay” it: soundcards can usually reproduce only signals up to about 20 KHz, but a remote control use 38 KHz modulation.
But some guys had a great idea some years ago (look here for their patent, now free available on internet; free registration required): simply connect two IR led to left and right channel, one the opposite way of the other, discarding GND, and play a stereo signal made of same signal with opposite phases: this will result in each LED producing a 19 KHz signal; their opposite phases allow signal “sum”, and the result is a 38 KHz signal.
How to accomplish all of this?!?
i – After deleting original signal track (you don’t need it anymore), create a new mono track in Audacity (menu can vary amond different versions):
j – Copy into it the just obtained (reconstructed) signal:
k – Select the whole track
l – Select “invert” from “effects” menu: this will inverti waveform phase:
m – select the first track and choose its own menu item to join it to the track below into a single stereo track:
You should now see a single stereo track:
Ok, now you eventually have the needed signal, which you can use to control your device.
Remote control – 2: Sample your remote
== 2 == SAMPLE YOUR REMOTE
a – Start “Audacity”
b – Plug your receiver into MICROPHONE input of your sound card
c – Place your remote in front of the LEDs
d – Start recording: stereo track, 7600044100 Hz, 16 or 32 bit.
e – Press a button on remote
f – Stop recording
Ok, now you have a sample of one button of the remote. You should see two different tracks: you’ll have to consider just the one which looks like a “square wave”.
Indeed, on my audio card (VIA AC’97) sampling on one channel results in a sequence “triangles”, while on the other channel I get a sequence of “rectangles”. You’ll have to ZOOM a lot into the waveform, both vertically and horizontally, as the signal is very short (few milliseconds), and probably quite low.
The meaning of squares is “digital”: if the signal is high, it means a 38 KHz carrier is present; if the signal is low, no carrier is transmitted. Remote controls use different protocols to tramsmt signals. Look at this page for details (but you don’t need to know details to complete your remote transceiver).
World’s cheapest remote control replicator: just 1$ !
Android apps:
- irplus WAVE https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.binarymode.android.irpluswave&hl=it
- Audio IR https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ir_remoter&hl=it
- MyRemocon https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.signzzang.sremoconlite&hl=it
- Zaza/il telecomando Tiqiaa https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tiqiaa.remote
- jackcom – https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jakcom.key
External IR blaster devices to fit in 3.5 mm plug:
- https://macsources.com/jakcom-i2-universal-remote-control-smart-phones-review/
- https://www.amazon.com/Ariic-Remote-Android-Universal-Headphone/dp/B00PBXH9YQ
You won’t need anymore complex circuits & complex software to sample commands from your remote control and to replicate them; all you need is just two standard IR led, which you can afford for about 0.50 $ each, or maybe you can extract from a couple of old remotes.
This method was tested with a VIA AC’97 audio card; please report if you have any success with different cards.
What you need:
– 1 spare headphone cable (0$ if you already have it, 10$ if you need a new one)
– 2 IR led (0$ if you have a couple of old remote controls, 1$ if you need to buy them)
– audio recorder software, e.g. Audacity, opensource and multiplatform (Windows/Linux)
What to do:
3) Edit the resulting waveforms
5) “Replay” the waveforms:
a – Plug the emitter into HEADPHONE output of your audio card
b – Position the two leds just in front of your device
c – Press PLAY in Audacity: your device should react to the command you previously sampled.
NOTES:
1 – For unknown reason, playing the resulting signal in Audacity works fine to control my device; but if I save the signal into a WAV file and reload it in Audacity, playing it results in… nothing! Any explanation for this?!? FIXED: it was due to wrong carrier frequency of rebuilt signal, which must be HALF of the needed carrier frequency! (19 KHz for 38 KHz, 18 KHz for 36 KHz…)
2 – You can’t save the signal in OGG or MP3 format, because this format distort the original signal
Please report results of your experiments! Good or bad, please just report and share! 😉
References and credits at bottom of this page:
http://www.planetmobile.it/jumpjack/LedRem/
Available patents (not mine):
Infrared generator from audio signal source
IR receiver using IR transmitting diode
Buy a ready-made device:
Appunti su fattibilità telecomando tramite cellulare
Varie possibilità:
già pronte:
Novii Remote (solo alcuni nokia, a pagamento), utilizza porta IrDA, non puo’ campionare ma solo usare codici da scaricare da internet; c’e’ da capire come creare nuovi codici
Psiloc IR Remote (moltissimi nokia s60, anche 3rd, stesso principio di Novii: non puo’ campionare).
La porta IrDa non puo’ essere usata per campionare i telecomandi, per motivi hardware, ma puo’ “riprodurli”.
Pagina Psiloc da dove scaricare codici pronti:
http://irremote.psiloc.com/Show.aspx?d=TV
Pagina Psiloc per inviare codici da convertire:
http://irremote.psiloc.com/Wizard.aspx
Siti che forniscono codici per telecomandi (devono essere convertiti nei formati di Novii e Psiloc):
http://lirc.sourceforge.net/remotes/
Forum vari su configurazione Psiloc IR Remote:
http://www.nokioteca.net/home/forum/index.php?showtopic=79009&st=180
http://www.spaziocellulare.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11487&page=2
http://forum.telefonino.net/showthread.php?t=347683&page=3
Scaricamento codici pronti:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/2/23/1777406/APPS/IrRemote%20Codes%20Adapter%201.0.rar
http://www.novii.tv/up/forum/download.php?id=293&sid=5be11bcf85de88dc0f30504b4c4ea88d
http://www.novii.tv/up/forum/download.php?id=292&sid=5be11bcf85de88dc0f30504b4c4ea88d
http://lirc.sourceforge.net/remotes.tar.bz2
Download Psiloc IR Remote:
http://download12.getjar.com/downloads/web/pub/1758/Psiloc_Total_irRemote.sis
http://web.archive.org/web/20060321063024/http://www.psiloc.com/files/consumer/series60/Psiloc_TotalirRemote_S60.sis (2.0 ???)
Download Novii Remote:
http://www.novii.tv/soft/NRN_21_Novii.zip
Programmi analoghi, per Windows Mobile (pocketPc)
Vantaggio: i PocketPC POSSONO campionare i telecomandi!
http://www.wincesoft.de/html/remotecontrol_ii.html
http://vitotechnology.com/en/products/remote.html
http://www.griffintechnology.com/griffinmobile/totalremote/ (fornisce anche hardware da collegare a presa cuffia, cosi’ qualunque dispositivo con uscita cuffia puo’ diventare telecomando! (ma prima bisogna registrare i codici!)) SITO MORTO
Progetti hardware di campionatori/replicatori telecomandi:
http://pc-ir-remote-vb.sourceforge.net/ PC IR Remote
http://www.geocities.com/odednoam/ IR Remote – progetto semplicissimo: campionatore costituito da normale fotoresistenza collegata a scheda audio! (funziona solo al buio, registra codici telecomandi, per poi riprodurli sempre con scheda audio, stavolta collegata a diodo emettitore)
http://features.engadget.com/2004/07/27/how-to-turn-your-ipod-in-to-a-universal-infrared-remote-control/ Usare l’IPOD e il “recorder di raggi infrarossi” della Griffin per telecomandare dispositivi.
Spiega anche come registrare IR senza PocketPC, con semplice diodo ricevente IR collegato a scheda audio.
http://people.inf.ethz.ch/mringwal/lirc/ Campionatore per LIRC e WinLIRC (linux e windows)
http://it.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=2861419 Diodo IR ricevente su RS-compnents
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